A few edits to be made first:
The Shiro restaurant is called Sege ("Segay") and is located on a cross street on the backside of Medhane Alem off Bole.
The Amharic name for the plant you put in your coffee is Tena adam. It's supposed to do all kinds of great shit for your health.
And a must-stop place to have coffee is Tomoca, an old Italian-looking joint down in the piazza (you can also pick up a really hot laminated map of Africa from any one of the 80 dudes selling them right outside the door). They don't have any seats except one long low bench and the old men standing in there sipping coffee are appropriately grumpy, especially when the small child next to them that is freaking out after eating banana bread topped with powdered sugar kicks them in the leg. The coffee also tastes excellent.
Finally, to cook Shiro: There seems to be some disagreement on this, but basically you are supposed to sautee the onions with oil, then add berbere and sautee for another five minutes to coat them like in any other wat dish. After that you add the shiro with water. My wife insists she has a recipe in which you sweat the onions in a cast-iron pan with no oil first. I'm all for it, she's made it and it tastes damn good. If I was going to make it though I think I'm using oil from the start.
And actually finally, I have never had a Macchiato before I came to Ethiopia, but when I drink coffee from now on, I think this is the way I will have it. They are absurd, and much more drinkable than straight up Ethiopian coffee. The coffee by itself is like getting kicked by a goat - which if you don't know is appropriate for the story of how coffee was discovered.



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